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Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide)

Trade name for palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, a cosmetic peptide used in topical formulations for its collagen-related signaling activity.

Overview

Matrixyl is a trade name owned by Sederma for palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, a cosmetic ingredient composed of the pentapeptide lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) attached to a palmitic-acid chain. The palmitoyl group improves penetration and stability in topical formulations. It is one of the most widely studied cosmetic peptides, with published in vitro work showing procollagen-stimulating activity and a number of industry-sponsored clinical studies reporting improvements in wrinkle appearance and skin texture.

Mechanism

The KTTKS sequence corresponds to a fragment of the C-terminal propeptide of procollagen, and the peptide is proposed to act as a signaling messenger that stimulates fibroblasts to increase production of collagen and other extracellular-matrix components. Palmitoylation confers lipophilicity, helping the peptide associate with cell membranes and penetrate the stratum corneum when applied topically.

Dosing

Matrixyl is incorporated into leave-on cosmetic formulations at low percentage concentrations defined by the formulator and supported by the ingredient supplier's efficacy studies. There is no systemic or injectable dosing; it is a topical cosmetic ingredient.

Expected Effects

  • increased collagen synthesis in fibroblast cell-culture studies
  • reduced wrinkle depth and improved skin firmness reported in cosmetic clinical studies
  • improved skin texture in several industry-sponsored trials

Side Effects & Tolerability

Cosmetic-use studies report that palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is well tolerated with a low rate of irritation; as with any topical ingredient, individual sensitivity is possible. Note that many published efficacy studies were funded by the ingredient manufacturer.

Storage

As a formulated cosmetic ingredient, storage follows the finished product label, typically cool and dry and protected from light. Raw peptide material should be kept frozen and desiccated before formulation.

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